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TAI HANG

Lin Fa Temple, Tai Hang

Lin Fa Temple in Tai Hang, a declared monument, was built in 1863. It is dedicated to Kwun Yum (Bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara) and used to be the main venue of worship of the Tai Hang residents in the past. It remains an important spot for the Tai Hang Fire Dragon Dance.

The architectural style of Lin Fa Temple is unique. The front hall of the temple was built on a platform and supported by stone pillars, while the main hall was built on a boulder. However, the boulder is currently blocked by the outer wall and only part of it can be seen from the inside of the temple. According to the legend, Kwun Yum once appeared on the boulder. Thus, the temple was built to commemorate and worship this holy relic.

The temple was originally located on the hillside facing the sea. During high tides, sea water would surge up to the temple, creating an illusion that the temple was floating on the water like a lotus. Due to ongoing reclamation projects, the tides have receded, only buildings remained.

Traditional Chinese craftsmanship can be seen in the different parts of the temple, such as the Shiwan Taosu decoration on the main ridge, the wood-carved panel, the stone-carved altar and the bronze clock. The design of the Lin Fa Temple incorporates elements of Western architecture. The front of the temple features a small balcony and parapet walls, and unlike the typical central entrance found in traditional Chinese temples, the gates of the temple are located on the sides. 

Haw Par Mansion

The Haw Par Mansion in Tai Hang was built in 1935. It is the former residence of Aw Boon Haw, a famous overseas Chinese merchant, who was also known as the "King of Tiger Balm".

The mansion adopted the "Chinese Renaissance" (or eclecticism) style, showcasing a blend of Chinese and Western elements. The Western architectural influences can be observed in the structures and layout, such as the porches, windowsills and fireplaces. There are also traditional Chinese decorations including the eaves, the moon gate and the Chiwen (Chinese mythical beast) on the roof ridge. Furthermore, the stained-glass window from Italy and carvings with Burmese-style motifs, reflect the diverse cultural influences.

Apart from the main building, private garden and workers’ dormitory, the Tiger Balm Garden was also owned by Aw Boon Haw. In the past, there were limited public recreational facilities accessible to the Chinese community. Therefore, it was a generous act to open the garden for the public to visit. Naturally, the Garden has become a popular attraction. The sculptures in the garden served as a visual representation of the philosophies and moral teachings of Buddhism, Taoism, and Confucianism, the three major Chinese belief systems. Among them, the most famous attraction was a large wall sculpture depicting the eighteen levels of hell, which aimed to promote the concept of karma and encourage people to do good.

As a famous tourist spot, the public space allowed local hawkers to sell drinks, snacks and souvenirs (needless to say, the Tiger Balm). Some stalls were placed in the garden, mansion and alongside to the Tiger Tower. Although the garden was closed in the late 1980s, the Tiger Tower was still open for visitors on weekends and public holidays.

Today, part of the Tiger Balm Garden has been demolished and rebuilt into apartments, while the mansion has been preserved and was revitalised as the Haw Par Music. At present, the general public can visit and enrol for docent tours through the Antiquities and Monuments Office.

HKSKH St. Mary’s Church

At the beginning of the 20th century, Hong Kong Sheng Kung Hui established the Eyre Diocesan Refuge for Destitute Woman in Causeway Bay to provide shelter and education to destitute and deprived women. A small chapel, named after St. Mary, was established in the Tai Hang area near the Eyre Diocesan Refuge as a place for gathering.

With the ever-growing congregation, Sheng Kung Hui initiated an expansion of the chapel in 1930s. Coinciding with the Chinese indigenous church movement, the Church was built in a fusion of Western architectural methods and traditional Chinese architectural form. Same form of architectural aesthetics (“Chinese Renaissance style") as the Haw Par Mansion.

Apart from its religious services, the Church often arranges art events for the public. Moreover, the Church extends their hospitality to homeless individuals and children during Christmas. St. Mary's Church is also actively involved in promoting education within the community, having founded kindergartens, primary schools, and secondary schools after the war.

For over a century, St. Mary's Church has been firmly embedded in the Tai Hang community, serving as a witness to its transformations and advancements. It was listed as a Grade I historic building in 2019.

Tai Hang Fuk Tak Temple

The exact year of establishment for Tai Hang Fook Tak Temple remains unknown. The main deity revered in the temple is the guardian deity of the land, commonly referred to as "Tudi Gong". This deity can often be found at village entrances, roadsides, under trees, and within various temples, companies, and even households.

According to legend, during the World War II, the Japanese army landed on the eastern side of Hong Kong Island. They proceeded westward along the coast, set up machine guns and conducted sweeps in Tai Hang. The residents of Tai Hang would seek shelter in a small pit located near the Fuk Tak Temple.

Christ the King Chapel

Christ the King Chapel, also known as the St. Paul's Convent Church, is a Grade I historic building. It was built by the French Catholic group, the Sisters of St. Paul de Chartres. The site was originally the Hongkong Cotton-Spinning, Weaving and Dyeing Company Ltd of the Jardines, later purchased by the Sisters in 1914 and eventually developed into a complex including a retreat house, a hospital, an orphanage, a school, serving the residents of Causeway Bay and Tai Hang.

The chapel adopted the classical revival style, with significant features such as the Corinthian columns at the exterior of the building. A statue of Christ the King is established on the top of the pediment at the front, holding the earth in His hand, symbolising His care towards the world. Shifting downwards is a phrase written in Latin, “REGEM REGUM VENITE ADOREMUS", which means "Let us adore the King of kings”.

If observe the chapel from a bird-eye view, you may identify its Latin cross-structure, which can accommodate around a thousand people. Made from Italian marble, the main altar depicts the famous Last Supper, carved by a French artist. All these features displayed classic Western architecture and artistic style.

Stele of Namo Amitabha Buddha

In the early days, the streams near the Mount Butler and the Jardine’s Lookout flowed northwards, passing through the present-day Haw Par Mansion and Wun Sha Street, and merged into the waters in Causeway Bay. This giant nullah thus became the name of the area, "Tai Hang", which literally means “big pit”.

Residents used to construct large water tanks and small pools to store water from the streams for doing laundry. Some also enjoyed playing in the water. It is said that there were tragic incidents of drowning due to the vigorous waters upstream (near the present Wun Sha Street). To appease the spirits of the deceased, the residents erected a stone stele inscribed with the words "Namo Amitabha Buddha."

In the 1960s, most of the water pits were converted into culverts, and the water tanks and pools were filled in. The last nullah was filled up in 2011 and was reconstructed into the "Fire Dragon Path."

Tin Hau Temple, Causeway Bay

Tin Hau Temple in Causeway Bay is a declared monument, though the year of construction remains uncertain. According to James Hayes’s research in the 1970s, the Tai family who built the temple was from a Hakka descendent. They originally lived in Po Kong, Kowloon and often crossed the sea to collect grass on the shore of Causeway Bay. Later, they found a red stone shaped like an incense burner (or a statue of Tin Hau, the goddess of the sea) nearby, which was perceived as the manifestation of the goddess. Thus, they decided to gather funds to construct a temple to worship the goddess.

The temple is a two-hall building with two side halls. The altars of the main hall are dedicated to Tin Hau, Bao Kung (Judge Bao) and the God of Wealth. The front ridge is decorated with two dragons gamboling with a pearl, while key-fret patterns and dragon fish could be seen at both ends. The rear ridge is adorned with colourful Shiwan ceramic figurines depicting characters and scenes from traditional Chinese operas. Additionally, the interior of the temple is filled with rare trencadís decorations and couplets. Utensils and building components made by stone, such as incense burners and tables can also be found. They were manufactured by Hokkien stonemasons and donated by a Hokkien association in the early 20th century. Although the merchants did not live in Tai Hang, but they paid regular visit to the temple.

Hong Kong Red Swastika Society Building

The Red Swastika Society is a worldwide charitable organisation founded in Shandong, China. It believes in the unification of the five religions, including Confucianism, Buddhism, Taoism, Christianity, and Islam.

The Hong Kong Red Swastika Society was established in the 1930s. Its first premise was in Central and later moved to Tai Hang. The building was built in the "Chinese Renaissance" (or "eclecticism") style, which is a mixture of Western construction method and structure with Chinese traditional motifs. It has a total of three floors. The basement is the consultation room and office, the second floor is a conference room and the ancestral shrine, while the third floor is for worship, and the roof with a small pavilion.

Besides religious activities, the Red Swastika Society is also dedicated to charitable activities. Since its establishment, the Society has been providing medical and pharmaceutical assistance, which continues to this day. Their expenditure rose drastically after the war. So, in the late 1940s and the early 1950s, the Society organised fundraising events in the building, garnering support from many renowned people such as Shouson Chow.

St. John Ambulance Brigade Hong Kong Island Command Headquarters

The Hong Kong St. John Ambulance was established in 1916. There was not a proper office established until 1933, when businessman Chau Man Chi made a generous donation, and the government allocated a piece of land by the hillside in Tai Hang as the headquarters. The building demonstrated a combination of classical and Art Deco architectural styles. Apart from the building, ambulances were donated by the famous businessmen Aw Boon Haw and Aw Boon Par. The headquarters building was officiated by then Hong Kong Governor Sir William Peel on 9 May 1935. The main building was named after “Chau Yue Teng" to commemorate Chau’s father. It was once the tallest building in the area.

The ground floor of the building is the clubhouse for officers and team members. The second floor is the lobby, leading to the semi-circular main entrance. In 1949, a monumental stone was inlaid in the centre of the lobby, engraved with the list of members who died in the line of duty during the war. The loft is used as an office, and the top floor is used as classrooms for various courses. 

In 1958, a new headquarters of St John Ambulance was established at 2 MacDonnell Road, thus the building in Tai Hang was changed to the Hong Kong Branch Headquarters of St. John Ambulance in 1997 and was listed as a Grade II historic building in 2011.

Tai Hang Fire Dragon Heritage Centre

The building at 12 School Street was originally a school called “Hung Shing Yi Hok” (Confucius free school for the poor) during the late Qing dynasty. It was founded by the Hong Kong Confucian Society, which was led by the renowned Chinese community leader Lau Chu-pak. Constructed through donations from the residents of Tai Hang, it served as a free school for the community.

The school suffered severe damage during the Japanese Occupation. Luckily, thanks to the donations from local residents, the reconstruction was successful after the war. The names of the donors from both contributions are engraved on a stone tablet, which is currently displayed in the main hall on the ground floor.

Over the years, the building has been used for educational purposes. From 1984 to 1999, it was the Confucian Society Victoria English Primary School, and from 2007 to 2010, it served as the office of the Eastern District Children's Choir of the Eastern District Cultural and Recreational Association. Currently, it has been transformed into the "Tai Hang Fire Dragon Centre" as part of Revitalisation Scheme, showcasing the history of the Tai Hang Fire Dragon and the evolution of the Tai Hang Hakka Village.

The building features modern architecture style with a cubic structure, white exterior walls, a flat roof, iron windows and decorative iron railings. The interior design is simple and practical, in line with the modernist emphasis on functionality.

Tai Hang Residents' Welfare Association

During the early Sino-Japanese War, the Japanese army occupied various regions in South China. Many refugees fled to Hong Kong and temporarily settled in Tai Hang. The public order of the community gradually became chaotic due to the sudden increase of refugees. To deal with the chaos, the residents formed a “Self-Defence Group”. Members of this group stationed daily to safeguard the key passages in Tai Hang. These volunteers only received a nominal fee for refreshments each month, and the funds mainly relied on fundraising in the community and donations from the wealthy merchants.

After the Second World War, due to insufficient police force, residents of Tai Hang suffered frequently from robbery. Thus, the residents pleaded the British government to re-organise the "Self-Defence Group" and hired armed personnel to maintain the law and order in the community. In order to increase the efficiency when coordinating regional affairs such as the Self-Defence Group, the community decided to establish a statutory association called the "Tai Hang Residents' Welfare Association". The association is also responsible for natural disaster relief when there were fires, typhoons and floods. In addition, they founded the Li Sing Primary School and organised different community events, not to mention the Tai Hang Fire Dragon Dance during the Mid-Autumn Festival. Residents of Tai Hang will come together at the association to craft the fire dragon and rehearse for the performance. There are also replicas of dragon heads for practice, historical photos records and a plaque recognising its status as one of the national intangible cultural heritage in the association.

Chinese Recreation Club, Hong Kong

In the early days during the colonial period in Hong Kong, European elite used sports clubs as symbols of social status, while wealthy Chinese businessmen were excluded. As a result, some of them sought to emulate the Western upper-class lifestyle and established their own "gentlemen's clubs".

In 1910, Sir Kai Ho initiated the establishment of the Chinese Recreation Club. In 1912, the Club applied for land allocation from the government and the construction was completed in March the same year. The building was officiated by Sir Frederick Lugard, the then governor of Hong Kong.

The Chinese Recreation Club has undergone two major reconstructions. The first one was the post-war reconstruction and renovation. The second one was an expansion in 1978, incorporating facilities such as a parking lot, children's playroom and recreational hall. Despite enduring all sorts of challenges for over 110 years, the Chinese Recreation Club well-preserves the Chinese banyan tree that was present since its founding. Through the club's half-moon-shaped exterior walls, the public can catch sight of this century-old tree.

Queen’s College Scout Den

The Scout Den in Queen's College was built around 1898. Listed as a Grade II historic building, it used to be the changing room of the Queen’s Recreation Ground.

Due to the lack of sports ground at its original premises, students of Queen's College used to engage in recreational activities at the Queen’s Recreation Ground. The changing room was constructed by the government in order to accommodate students' changing and resting needs. In 1950, the campus of Queen’s College was moved to the present site at Causeway Road, what was previously known as Queen’s Recreation Ground, the changing room thus became a part of the campus. Over the years, the changing room has undergone several changes in its use and is currently serving as an activity room for the scouts, for storing items such as trophies, materials and camping equipment. It is said that when the scouts prepare for outdoor cooking activities, they would purchase ingredients from the food stalls in Tai Hang.

Both Western and Chinese architectural features could be seen from the scout den, such as the red bricks walls, the glass-framed circular moon-gate and window, and the pitched and double-tiled Chinese roofs. The long corridor is laid with chequered pattern cement floor tiles, which, despite a century of existence, remain in excellent condition.

※ Please note that the Scout Den is located inside the school and is not open to the public. You can also see some architectural features from the outside on Fire Dragon Path instead.

4 Second Lane

4 Second Lane of Tai Hang (currently known as THE SHOPHOUSE) is a pre-war tong lau (tenement building) that has been listed as a Grade III historic building. The exterior of the building is constructed using the "Shanghai plaster" technique, which involves a mixture of gravel and cement to imitate the appearance of a stone-built structure.  "Shanghai plaster" is not actually derived from Shanghai but was commonly used in architecture from the 1920s to 1930s, combining Western techniques with Eastern characteristics. The interior decoration of the building also reflects the features of the 1930s, with popular elements such as coloured encaustic tiles and terrazzo flooring and the decorative edges on the ceilings.

This building has undergone several changes of ownership and has been used for various purposes, including residential, car garage and beauty salon. In 2020, the art space called THE SHOPHOUSE took over the premises and decided to restore its original features. As a result, the exterior walls which was painted in pink by the previous owner was uncovered, displaying the layer with "Shanghai plaster" technique. The interior space has also been restored to its original look. Regular exhibitions are held to showcase works of artists from around the world. Furthermore, a retail concept store named Otherthings was added, offering a variety of art pieces for purchase.

Street Stalls

With rapid increase of population during the post-war, the government issued a large number of street stalls licenses to meet the employment and dining needs of the grassroots. Tai Hang has many street food stalls, each with its own unique characteristics and have witnessed the development of Tai Hang over the course of time. One of them is the Bing Kee Cha Dong, which was established in the 1950s.

Bing Kee Cha Dong is a family-run business that has been standing on Shepherd Street in Tai Hang for nearly 70 years. In the early days, the stall mainly served food like milk tea, toast and Chinese pastries, and later, increased the choice of items such as instant noodles and coffee.

The stall is located between two tong laus (tenement building) . The stall top is in the shape of a pyramid, with an additional corrugated iron roof. The stall is mainly made of green iron sheets, a frame and awning have been built outside, making efficient use of the space between the stall and the tong laus.

In addition to the architectural design, the utensils used in the stall also reflect the historical value and the characteristics of that era, such as the iconic traditional tea bags for making milk tea, stainless steel water pots and large water boilers. Folding tables, plastic stools and stoves are all simple equipment that has retained traditional essence.

Wun Sha Street Stalls

The 1940s to the 1960s was the heyday of the Wun Sha Street vendors. There were nearly 100 of them selling vegetables, snacks, foreign goods and fruits. Later, in the 1970s, the government gradually replaced them with fixed hawker stalls. There were less street vendors onwards – some were forced to move to indoor wet markets for business. At one point, Wun Sha Street had only about 8 hawker stalls remaining, selling products such as vegetables, hardware, candles.

According to the residents in Tai Hang, many would visit the congee stalls or tea stalls before heading to work or school, enjoying a bowl of congee with Chinese fried dough sticks or a cup of creamy milk tea. Some vendors specialised in beef entrails or “Faat Daat Tong”, a cheaper version of the Sugus. Additionally, there were various types of market stalls offering products, such as fish, dried seafood, vegetable, pork, beef, chicken and duck. The scouts from the Queen's College would also visit the market to purchase fresh vegetables for their outdoor cooking activities.

Recently, the government has issued a large number of hawker licenses for the first time, leading to the emergence of new stalls in Tai Hang. These new stalls offer a variety of products such as sauces, fabric crafts, books, and more, continuing the story of the Tai Hang street stalls.

30-31 Sun Chun Street

The premises at 30 & 31 Sun Chun Street is one of the oldest buildings in Tai Hang. Tracing back to the land records in 1894, it used to be part of the old Hakka village named Tai Hang Village.

The one-storey house keeps its significant Chinese village house structure, including walls of plastered and painted granite blocks, pitched roofs of Chinese tiles and granite doorframe.

Today, most of the village houses have converted into shops, yet still one of them remained to provide a glimpse into lives of residents from over a hundred years ago. The building was listed as Grade III historic building in 2021.

3 School Street

The 3-storey tong lau (tenement building) with "Shanghai Plaster" on the exterior wall is now a hair salon called Allure Customised Hair. Opened in the 2010s, the first floor is the owner’s workspace, the second floor is a private space for his music records, while the third floor is the residential area.

One of the unique features of the building is that there are no fixed intervals, the residents can adjust the design with great flexibility. The original granite wall is well-preserved and red bricks are used to repair the damaged parts and the doors and windows. As new buildings have been built on both sides, some of the side doors and windows are no longer in use.

The shop owner is a music enthusiast and often invites friends to organise mini concerts in the shop. During Christmas, choirs are invited to sing Christmas carols. The vintage style of the shop has attracted many visitors and became one of the popular spots in Tai Hang.

16 Sun Chun Street

16 Sun Chun Street, said to be renovated from a pre-war tong lau (tenement building), is a two-storey building with a small arcade. The century-old Chinese wooden door with unique doornail and knocker reflected changes through the decades.

The building is now called SonneCAD, a coffee shop offering hand-brewed and cold-brewed coffee, and roasted coffee beans from various regions in the world.

Lai Tak Tsuen

During the late 1960s, there was a squatter area near Tai Hang (remnants can still be found in the hills near Lai Tak Tsuen). These areas frequently encountered fires, floods and other issues, thus the government decided to improve their security and sanitation by replacing them with Lai Tak Tsuen, a public housing estate, to accommodate the nearby villagers.

Lai Tak Tsuen is named after Michael Wright, who was also known as the "Father of Public Housing". The estate was completed in stages between 1975 and 1976, providing over 2,600 units in total. The most iconic buildings in the estate complex must be the Lai Kit Lau and Tak Chuen Lau, which adopted a novel and unique cylindrical design. These buildings have a central circular atrium, enhancing airflow and natural light within the space. The planning of Lai Tak Tsuen aimed to create a self-sufficient community, equipped with facilities such as shops, banks, clinics and kindergarten, ensuring comprehensive amenities for the residents.